Designer Deep Dive: Lacoste
The history of Lacoste & why Gen Alpha is killing "preppy"
Welcome to the first installment of Designer Deep Dive! In this series, I’ll explore the origins, evolution, and cultural relevance of iconic brands that have shaped fashion as we know it. Today, we’re starting with Lacoste, the brand that popularized ivy league “preppy” style in an era determined to redefine the word “prep”.
I recently started this series on social media, where I let a wheel decide which vintage piece I’ll wear each day. On day 8, it picked a 1960s dress that I received from a Texas vintage shop called “Bloomers & Frocks” (which I believe no longer exists). The label read "David Crystal," but the crocodile logo on the left breast puzzled me… Was it a Lacoste dress?
Yep. It was. And thus I went down a crocodile-sized rabbit hole.
The Origins: A Tennis Champion's Vision
Lacoste’s story begins in the 1920s with French tennis champion René Lacoste, nicknamed "the Crocodile". At the time, players wore “tennis whites” or long-sleeved button-up shirts and ties— the color white was meant to symbolize cleanliness and class, and was mandatory at many tournaments, including Wimbledon, where the rule still exists today. He sought a solution to this uncomfortable and restrictive attire…
So in 1933, Lacoste teamed up with André Gillier, the owner of France’s largest knitwear manufacturing company, to design a breathable, short-sleeve cotton polo shirt. This shirt, made from a lightweight pique fabric, was a game-changer for athletes. The innovation of the "Lacoste Polo" wasn’t just its design—it was also one of the first clothing items to prominently display a brand logo on the outside. That little green crocodile quickly became iconic.
The 1950s & Bringing it to America:
Lacoste may have started on the tennis court, but by the 1950s, it was well on its way to becoming a global symbol of casual luxury. In a significant move, Lacoste partnered with American businessman David Crystal, owner of Izod, to bring the brand to the U.S. market. The crocodile logo quickly became a status symbol among the upper-middle class, associated with country clubs, golf courses, and Ivy League campuses.
Throughout the 1960s, Lacoste expanded into other sports, including golf and sailing, cementing its place in the world of elite athletic wear. By the 1970s and 1980s, Lacoste had become a key element of preppy fashion, particularly among students and young people. The "Izod" Lacoste polos were worn as a statement of wealth, leisure, and elite status, contributing to the rise of the preppy movement.
The Evolution: Lacoste in the Modern Era
After a dip in popularity during the 1990s, Lacoste experienced a resurgence in the early 2000s, driven by a rebranding effort that expanded its product range and attracted a younger audience. Under creative directors Felipe Oliveira Baptista and Louise Trotter, the brand embraced a fashion-forward approach, blending its athletic roots with more minimalist, contemporary designs. They also prioritized sustainability, with initiatives using eco-friendly materials, ethical practices, and even the "Save Our Species" campaign.
In recent years, Lacoste has connected with a younger demographic through high-profile collaborations with streetwear labels like Supreme and A Bathing Ape (BAPE) while creative director Pelagia Kolotouros, who took over in 2023, has continued to push the brand away from its traditional preppy roots, toward streetwear and sport-inspired design. Lacoste's homage to its founder during Paris Fashion Week, through designs inspired by the 1920s and 1930s, but with a casual twist, highlights how “preppy” is actually “growing up”.
Preppy Today: A Style in Transition
So what has become of "preppy" style today? Over the past few years, platforms like TikTok have seen a rise in a new form of "preppy" style associated with pink, bows, sparkles, and brands like Lululemon—a far cry from the buttoned-up, Ivy League style of the past.
So in this attempt to appeal to younger generations, I can’t help but ask myself “is Gen Alpha killing prep?” and while the scroll-stopping, sensationalizing TikTok side of me might be quick to use that as a hook in a video… I don’t think it’s entirely fair.
Because while today’s preppy look may be more relaxed and trendy, the underlying association with wealth, school culture, and affluence remains. The “old money” (also apparently known as “old preppy” by some) aesthetic, also popular among Gen Z and Alpha, is really just “preppy” in disguise. Much like how the term “hippie” evolved from 1970s counterculture to today’s “granola girl,” preppy has been redefined by younger generations. What was once associated with Ivy League affluence and polished luxury is now blending with more relaxed, accessible fashion trends.
The moral of the story? Preppy is changing and the brand that helped shape it in the first place will be there to change with it.
I hope you enjoyed this deep dive into Lacoste. Stay tuned for more explorations of iconic designers/brands in the next edition of Designer Deep Dive and let me know in the comments who you'd like to see featured!
I look forward to seeing your expose on skiing gear as I have several Ellesse and JC Killy outfits from the 80's.
I would love to see a designer deep dive on Elsa Schiaparelli (sp?). Btw, do you have any Schiaparelli?